We are aware of this by serving wholesale clients from around the world. Probably every furniture company supplies products presented in this category. So, as you can see, the use of cabinet shelf brackets is very versatile and diverse.Ĭabinet shelf brackets – basic structural elements every furniture company uses High-quality shelf brackets are very often used for mounting self-contained shelves, shelf sets, room cabinets and interior of large wardrobes. Such parts can be used in cabinets (as their name implies), but not only. Thanks to them, shelves will be stable and withstand heavy loads. Just noticed you can get metal pegboard - I may try this since it would seem the holes would wear hardly at all.Cabinet shelf brackets are small-size furniture supports that enable safe construction of furniture.

I may have even substituted a 5mm drill bit for the 13/64'.

It seems to me that the pegboard I used had 1/4' holes, and I used 5mm pins. It's been a while, so I don't recall exactly. Pegboard and a Vix bit? How do we get from a 13/64' (the biggest I've run across, but it won't fit in a pegboard hole) Vix bit to a 1/4' pin hole? I like them because they (help) eliminate drill bit wander. It's a self-centering, adjustable depth bit. Peg board - that's it! I could not remember. My experience is that the jigs will wear when you drill the holes and the spacing doesn't stay perfect when the holes begin to wear on the jig. Of course, a line borer will pay for itself quickly if you're doing a bunch, but I've drilled thousands of holes in the way I described. The tape will also keep the stop collar from defacing your material, as well as cutting down on chipping. Hit the cross marks with a center punch, and then drill them with a brad point bit with a depth stop collar on it. Draw a straight line, and then make tick marks every inch or 1 1/2'. If you're not hung up on 32mm spacing, the fastest way is to put a piece of masking tape down so you can write on it without writing on your material. They come with a vix bit that auto centers in the jig and automatically sets the depth. I think I've bought them from Eagle America, but I know Rockler has them, and I'm sure Woodworkers Supply does, too. I guess 1/4'' pin, I use 1/4'' drill bit? Since no line borer, I guess I flop them up on the drill press for good strait holes? 32mm center-center? I guess I just start 32mm from the bottom. There are several good supply houses in Nashville, but it's such a drag fighting traffic, and unless I'm loading down my truck, UPS shipping costs less than my gas. It comes with the euro-screw already attached and in different finishes. They have their own factory and make most of the shelf pins for everybody else. Where did you find the clip with two holes in it? That would make a very good shelf connection. The screw screws into a 5mm hole, then you can secure the shelf from below so it won't warp. I forgot about this one until contributor H mentioned it. Nobody wants to see KV standards anymore, but if you're going to support a lot of weight, they really work well. Other than that, KV standards are the only other good solution. If you could get the screws in shelf pin it would hold up very well. We used to make computer furniture with adjustable shelves that would hold a CPU, monitor, and printer. Thanks on the Fastcaps - I had forgotten about them.Ĭontributor R has the best solution. They've got adhesive backed caps in any color and any size. My point is that if everything must be proportioned and symmetrical, will the shelves ever be moved up or down 32mm? Are there any hole plugs that I can get to cover the unused holes in this painted white headache?įor covering the unused holes, look at FastCap. This customer is so symmetrical that I have to stack the DVD and TVO because they are different colors (he believes if they were the same color, they would be fine side by side, but with one being silver and the other being black, stacking will look better). I prefer fixed shelves in my old face frame style cabinets, and most of the adjustable ones I see out in the field have been positioned evenly spaced and look to have never been moved after the install. The 5mm steel spoon supports work quite well. All the pin has to do is provide sheer strength. 5mm pin and 1/8' hole for running a screw from underneath. The strength of the L shaped ones is partially derived from the fact that the L runs up the ends of the shelf and the shelf keeps the pin from tipping inward. I don't know that the 1/4' are that much stronger than the 5mm, but I do know that the metal L shaped ones are much stronger than the plastic ones or even the combo clear/metal ones where the shelf sits on top of the pin.

Kitchen cabinet shelf pins